Essential for not hitting the ground!

Most modern belay devices work with single or twin ropes, and are designed for dual use (you can abseil on them too). There is a huge range, with most covering a fair range of rope dimensions whilst others are more specific to thicker or thinner ropes, and some providing more or less 'grab' and friction .

The BMC have highlighted 4 categories of belay device, with regard to the style of braking involved with the use of each specific device.

Slick devices work on a frictional basis. They run very smoothly, but require more care when holding a fall.

Intermediate devices have a high degree of friction, but do not actually grab the rope. These provide good general use devices.

Grabbing devices brake sharply, but tend to lock up. These are more forgiving devices, as they lock easily, but lack of attention could mean locking when not required.

Locking devices have a camming action which holds the rope when it is moved rapidly, as in a fall.

As always we only stock the best, and only after a rigorous test.

DMM

The slick DMM Bug is a shop favourite for the dual use of 9-11mm diameter rope devices. It's great for belaying and abbing, especially when combined with the Boa karabiner which sits up into the device well (for improved braking) but still allows smooth rope flow when letting out or taking in slack. It's an excellent first belay device because it's simple and symmetric, and as idiot-proof as a belay device can be, but the efficient design means it also remains a favourite with experienced climbers. We also stock Bug and Boa and Bug and Belay Master sets for the perfect belay package.

The DMM Bugette is a baby Bug, for use on rope as thin as 7.5mm through to 9.5mm. It works as well on 8mm ropes as a standard bug on 10mm ones. This is the ideal device for anyone using sub 9.5mm single or double ropes. Its incredibly light weight (27g) and small size make it an important option for Alpinists.

Black Diamond

The Black Diamond ATC (Air Traffic Controller) was the innovation that sprang a lot of competitors. This slick single or double, 9mm to 11mm belay and abseil device is still a good choice. The stripped-down ATC Sport is designed for single ropes only, in situations where you won't have to abseil on double ropes. The climbing wall is a fine example! It's light, simple and streamlined.

The ATC Guide is a two friction option device designed for use with ropes that go from 8.1mm right through to 11mm. It also allows direct belaying of two seconds independently in a self-locking manner when used in guide mode, in a manner similar to the excellent and versatile Petzl Reverso 3. Both of these lock both ropes if one second falls, it is easy to handle both ropes comfortably at different rates of progress. Of course, you can still use them both to belay one climber on a single on a single rope as well!

Clog

The traditional sticht plate is still a valid belay device which is popular with centres and groups due to the high frictional locking ability of the device, and their ability to take a wide range of rope diameters. They are very grabbing for easy holding of falls, and the addition of springs to some models helps stop any jamming problems that may occur when used in inexperienced hands. Certain members of staff refuse to be parted from theirs...

Edelrid

Locking belay devices with moving parts can be useful for people who have the unfortunate job of belaying people that work routes heavily. This enables them to roll a fag or open their sardines at will (although we do not recommend either of these practices for various reasons), while still holding their resting partner safely. Proper belaying practises with should be followed using any device, but these do make life a little more relaxed. The most common is the Petzl Grigri, which is popular with the belay bunnies of harder sport climbers who'll happily hang of a Fr7c all day. Our preferred self locking belay device is the Edelrid Eddy. This works on a wide range of rope thicknesses including modern thin red point ropes (except for the very thickest furry 11mm jobs where a Grigri is better, or maybe it's time to buy a new rope). It has the advantage of locking when pulled fully open, so a startled or panicked belayer won't grip suddenly and let the rope fly through.